That’s a mouthful to say and a delicious mouthful to eat. I have just retired from my full time practice of medicine at the end of last week. My colleagues long complained that I didn’t bring enough baking into the office. As you know, it can be challenging to bake during the work week so you can bring it something that is freshly baked. Well since I’m now retired (I’ll return to work part time next year doing locums) I have time to bake during the week.
I know my staff and colleagues have a sweet tooth so I wanted to try a different sweet roll that I have made before. My source of organic stoneground whole wheat flour was totally out so I couldn’t bake with very much whole wheat so adjusted my recipe for this entirely bread flour version. Since it is fall now, I thought what better to fill the rolls with but spiced apple and browned butter.
9” square pan
For the Filling:
1 stick unsalted butter
3 pounds Granny Smith apples—peeled, cored and chopped into ¼-inch pieces
1 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1-2 pinches of nutmeg
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Make the filling: In a medium Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook until it just begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining filling ingredients and cook, stirring often, until the apples are caramelized and the liquid has reduced to a thick syrup, 25 to 28 minutes. Let cool completely.
Method
- Pre-cook Flour (Yudane) – 8:00 a.m. or night before and cover tightly.
Be sure to make this yudane ahead of time to give it time to cool before mixing. The texture of the mixture seems to improve if left to rest for at least one hour.
Do ahead: Alternatively, you could make the yudane the night before, let it cool, then cover and place it in the fridge. The next morning, let it warm to room temperature before mixing it into your dough.
Boil the water and pour it over the flour in the Kitchenaid mixing bowl. Stir with spatula (not a whisk as the Yudane will get stuck in the tines) until the mixture tightens up and all dry bits are incorporated. Let the pre-gelatinized flour cool on the counter until you mix the main dough.
- Mix
To the cooled yudane, add milk, eggs, sugar and salt. Mix to breakdown the eggs. Add levain using your spatula cut the levain into small pieces. Add bread flour, mix with the spatula until no dry flour remains. Fermentolyse for 20 mins. Using your KA mixer knead the dough until you can almost get a windowpane. Then add the butter gradually to the dough in the stand mixer waiting until the previous addition is fully absorbed.
The dough should be strong and smooth at the end of mixing with a good windowpane.
Transfer your dough to a bulk fermentation container and cover.
- Bulk Fermentation
At warm room temperature, around 82°F, bulk should take about 3 hours.
Give this dough three sets of coil folds at 30 minute intervals
After the third set, let the dough rest, covered, for the remainder of bulk fermentation.
- Chill Dough
At this point, your dough should have risen in your bulk container, be puffy to the touch, and have smoothed out. If the dough still feels dense and tight, give it another 15 minutes and check again.
Place your covered bulk fermentation container in the refrigerator for at least one hour to fully chill the dough.
- Roll and Shape
Before removing your dough from the refrigerator, make the filling. In a small mixing bowl, combine the following. It may seem like it’s not enough filling to cover the entire surface of the dough—spread it thin.
The dough should be cold and firm to the touch; give it more time to chill if necessary.
Next, butter your baking pan (even if it’s nonstick) to ensure the rolls remove cleanly after baking or line with parchment paper.
This dough is very soft. Act quickly to roll, spread the filling, and cut before the dough warms and softens further. If it begins to soften, place it in the fridge to firm.
Remove your bulk fermentation container from the fridge, lightly flour your work surface in a large rectangle shape, and the top of the dough in the bowl. Then, gently scrape out the dough to the center of your floured rectangle. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour, and using a rolling pin, roll the dough out to a 15″ x 15″ square.
Spread the apple cinnamon filling over the dough, leaving a one cm border on all sides. Roll the dough into a tight log and pinch to seal the seam. Using dental floss, cut the roll into 9 equal pieces. Place them into the prepared pan, cut side up. Cover the pan to prevent the dough from drying out.
- Warm Proof
Place the pan back in the 82°F proofing box. Allow the rolls to fully proof, they should fill the pan and the spaces between them fully. The dough should be marshmallowy soft. This may take 5-7 hours.
Be sure to start preheating your oven at 400°F about 30 minutes before you feel the rolls will be fully proofed.
Bake
Preheat your oven, with a rack in the middle, to 400°F (200°C). After the warm proof, uncover your dough and gently press the tops of a few rolls. The fully proofed rolls will look very soft. The texture of the dough will be almost like a whipped mousse. Be sure to give them extra time in warm proof if necessary. If the dough needs more time to proof, cover the pan and give the dough another 15 to 30 minutes at a warm temperature and check again.
Once your oven is preheated, remove your pan from its bag, slide it into the oven, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes.
The rolls are finished baking when the tops are well-colored and the internal temperature is around 195°F (90°C). Remove the rolls from the oven, remove them from the pan and place them on a rack. Let the rolls cool for 5 to 10 minutes in the pan, then serve.
These are best the day they’re made, and certainly fresh from the oven, but can be reheated in a warm oven a day or two after.
Prepare the Glaze
For the Glaze:
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
½ cup honey
1 tablespoon whole milk
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Once the rolls are fully cooled out of the oven and on a rack, drizzle the glaze on the rolls.
So these were a hit with everyone who had one. The apple cinnamon with a hint of nutmeg tasted like autumn and was complimented by the honey glaze and buttery bread.